I MAKE a pot of kaya when I feel like it or when I have a couple of hours to kill.

KAYA OKAY: Byron shows off his thick pandan kaya (above). His best-selling orange peel ciabatta (below). PICTURES: MAKANSUTRA

I had to make about 4litres of that eggy pandan Nonya jam on my recent food promo trip to New York.

It was hard work - stirring at regular intervals over a hot, bubbling mixture which had an unbelievable number of eggs, a pile of sugar, enough thick coconut milk to moisturise an extended family, and a whole bunch of frozen pandan leaves.

One stir of the mix every 30 seconds initially, then every minute, all over low heat, for about two hours.

Stir, stir, stir... observe, observe.

Not very different a technique from what these Wall Street types do with their customers' life savings. The difference is, in making kaya, you know exactly when to stop. One is difficult to overcook; the other, easy to over-rate.

Former economist

And former economist Byron Shoh can vouch for this. As a living example of a banking and business strategist (with stints at Schroeders and Hewlett-Packard) turned roti kaya shop entrepreneur, he knows the market, churn rate, when to hold and when to sell.

Yes, we are talking about his self-made kaya.

When HP merged with Compaq, he gave in to the 'tao tiah' (headache) and decided to pursue his Cantonese love for makan.

He ventured into Hainanese kopitiam territory. He peddled roti kaya in Chinatown as 'I observed there were lots of aunties and uncles just milling around all day long with not much to do'.

'It was a market opportunity and there were not enough roti kaya specialists around,' he said like a true analyst.

So, with a former partner from Seremban, he journeyed to the Malaysian town and unashamedly asked an old master at the famous Nanyang coffee shop how he makes his kaya. He agreed to teach the strangers as he has a son working happily in Singapore.

Byron replaced the gula melaka with pandan and cane sugar for a Nonya twist. The kaya trick is done.

Next, he asked coffee suppliers how to make a good local brew. They happily shared their secrets with him in anticipation of business.

He just had to figure out the water's temperature and the sugar-milk infusion trick. The kopi story, done.

So then, it was down to the half-boiled eggs.

Byron methodically arrived at this formula - 'cool boiling water for four minutes, then roll eggs in it for about for four to five minutes'. It worked - the yolk was perfectly runny and creamy. The perfect egg, done.

Now, to stand out from other kopitiams with a gilt-edge concept. 'I thought some people may be bored with the regular bread, so I introduced Italian ciabatta bread for an added difference,' he said.

He layered butter onto the hot and crispy Italian bread, which absorbed it so well. Then he slathered the slices with his thick, green pandan kaya ($2.20 for four pieces).

Shiok

The whole toast comes thick and crusty on the outside and soft inside. Very shiok to eat, unlike the usual thin toast ($1.50).

But what made me fall off the chair the first time I tried it was his orange peel ciabatta version ($2.60).

The butter, the generous kaya become mere teasers when the tangy bits of citrus rind kick in the mouth. This version comes in slightly thinner slices, but are just as crusty and soft. The ciabatta now accounts for 40 per cent of his bread orders.

As for his coffee, he admits it 'must be done by the cranky old man or myself'. He has come across regulars who will skip the coffee if either of them are not on duty.

'It is very hard to teach a younger generation or foreign staff the 'feel' of local coffee,' he said.

His regular sets - coffee, two eggs and toast - start at $3.50, and the ciabatta sets at $4.20 and $4.60 (orange peel ciabatta), cheaper than a popular competitor's sets at $4.50 for a regular set.

And, just for fun, Byron also offers Nigella Lawson-recipe scones - all great food for thought for the budget-conscious Shenton Way bankers and traders today.

Makansutra, founded by KF Seetoh, is a company that celebrates Asian food culture and lifestyle. It publishes food guides in and around the region, produces a food television series, develops interactive mobile content and services, operates food courts and eateries, organises food tours and events, and consults on culinary concepts.

 Back to Columnists