HE CAME on stage and introduced me as a friend whose 'food guide gave me a better idea for flavours' at his restaurant in New York.

Executive chef of Spice Market Anthony Ricco. PICTURES: MAKANSUTRA

Of course, it wasn't what I suggested but it was what he ate at all those die-die-must-try eateries rated in our Makansutra food guide six years ago.

He came, saw (in the company of food evangelist and consultant Aun Koh), ate, paid, conquered and went home to set up Spice Market.

'I went in search of flavours in India, Thailand, Malaysia and even Indonesia but Singapore was the most convenient, they had it all in one place,' he said.

I was not able to guide him on that trip as I was out of town on assignment.

NEW YORK DELIGHTS: Bittersweet Vietnamese coffee tart.

Nonetheless, three-Michelin star living legend Jean George Vongerichten, or JG as we call him, handed the floor of about 80 top New York food and related media guests to me for my cooking and demo at his prestigious Spice Market restaurant.

It was a stint arranged by IE Singapore to promote our cuisine, flavours and products to American palates.

To have JG personally introduce me was a rare honour; he is often on the road around the world to oversee his 30 eateries and other business affairs.

I mentally rehearsed the entire scene the day before, right down to chopping, deboning and slicing up a chicken into 12 portions, for a tale on our beloved 'kai fan' - chicken rice.

As I had not tried the food at Spice Market, I thought: 'Alamak, how to tell the media guests, with a straight face, my honest opinion and views on JG's food?'

The eatery is vintage New York chinoiserie, with woody touches, and also intricate temple door frames which JG bought from India, and a hint of contrast in the leather armchairs reminiscent of British colonial country clubs, with a mini Chinese pavilion.

It's a little reminiscent of the old Raffles Hotel. The bar, framed with Thai style village windows, offered cocktails like ginger margarita and kumquat mojito.

Each night, about 150 throng the bar while about 400 chow down on their interpretations of South-east Asian makan.

Sixteen dishes, desserts and appetizers later, executive chef Anthony Ricco asked if I wanted more.

I was about to fall off the chair and I managed a polite 'enough, chef'.

I quizzed him a little on his strangely familiar pepper salt crispy stingray with Thai basil and lime, which I couldn't stop munching, and the almost-anyhow-do avocado with Chinese mustard.

Though the radish salad and onion tempura rings was like leftovers from three dishes, it was my favourite dish.

I was also curious about the Thai shrimp cake with cucumber peanut relish, which offered the same sensation as those you get by the Sukhumvit streetside in Bangkok, except that it was jazzed up with a funky dip, as well as the grilled chicken with kumquat lemongrass dressing, which was very refreshing.

Then he unleashed a shocker.

He had never visited Asia.

Before I could protest and pass snide remarks, he fired another stunner to finish me and my colleague Yong Kuat off - Vietnamese coffee and jasmine tea with a bittersweet Viet-coffee tart with a blob of condensed milk ice cream with brown sugar bits.

Another delight was a teh tarek ice cream with brown sugar meringue and fruits.

The average cost of the meal worked out to about $50 per head.

I had to grovel and beg him for the Viet-coffee dessert recipe, which he promised.

JG, if he doesn't, please fire him!

FYI

WHAT: Spice Market NYC

WHERE: 403 West 13th St New York, New York

VISIT: culinaryconcepts.com  Back to Columnists