THEY came, they saw, they dazzled and then they faded away.

HUMBLE: Chef Willin Low, seen in this file picture in Wild Rocket. BT FILE PICTURE

It sounds like we're talking about Hollywood has-beens but no, it's about the finer eateries here.

Over the last decade or two, many stellar eateries have pleased our palates. They didn't get any real complaints about their food and service, save for the few personal and vindictive comments which were dressed up as real ones.

Like the old Bice restaurant which once sat proudly as a culinary icon at the Goodwood Park Hotel; or Salut, the once die-die-must-try Makansutra-rated French eatery at Tanjong Pagar; or even the loud, proud and respected Gaetano's, formerly found off Club Street; or even the recent victim of the downturn, Canton Wok at Joo Chiat.

They are all once makan temples but are now relegated to history. So what makes a good eatery stay relevant, even in tough times?

Bice may be now history but its legacy remains - many ex-staffers and ex-chefs went on to set up their own respectable Italian joints here like Senso, Oso and Il Lido at Sentosa.

The former executive chef at Salut (who was not proud of conceding defeat and I'll not name him) felt his award-winning smoked duck breast 'cannot compete with Singaporean's love for roast duck at Geylang'.

So he upped and left for Australia.

But of late, I have noted a curious case.

One restaurant, Wild Rocket, has been around for four years, and at my recent lunch there, I would not have been able to get a table had I not booked two days earlier.

The creations at Wild Rocket aren't cheap either although boss Willin Low says they actually serve 'fine food at casual prices'.

The prices of his pasta dishes hover around $20. Although his restaurant is in town, it at a hard-to-find hideout.

One would expect these establishments to crumble in dire times like now, but Willin cooks not just from the heart, but the head.

'Business slumped up to 30 per cent since last year and there were erratic days when we shoot through the roof,' he said, adding that of late, he's seeing signs of improvement.

Diners are eating with a tighter budget at his restaurant and even his set lunches and dinners, at between $25 and $50, aren't quite steals either.

Willin's well-crafted reasons are that it is 'the only local restaurant selling mod Singaporean food', 'in a getaway stress-free location' and it offers 'good value'.

I agree with the first and last reasons (although good value can mean a $70 meal there), but they still leave you guessing why it continues to reel customers in.

My reading is this - good food, sharp service and a boss who circulates with a smile and who has a humble disposition.

That was not one of Gaetano's better virtues nor was there a face to the place at Bice.

Eating at a prime restaurant is about the chef, not the brand.

Dining must be revered first as social exercise, then as a business. Staying relevant to your target market is a mantra you must chant every day.

And it helps that Wild Rocket is not intimidating - toddlers on baby chairs are seen feeding next to mod mummies who dine.

Willin currently offers a good value six course degustation (tasting samplers) at $128++ for two tummies.

Their kueh pie tee cup with truffle infused shitake is charming in idea, flavour and texture - two chomps and it's gone but it lingers in the palate.

He created and stylised his 'childhood food' - congee soup with seafood and egg emulsion - simply an overboiled mushy ball of porridge in clear broth with swimmer crab and prawns with fancy egg streaks atop.

Very comforting (but as a kid, mine had fishballs and ikan bilis, not swimmer crabs).

Asian soul

Remember the yusheng platters in gaudy Chinese restaurants where the slice raw fish is neatly arranged on a plate? Willin served just that, with seabass, orange shallot oil and arugula leaves.

His next offering of dry mee kia (branded as spaghettini there) tossed in crustacean oil and bonito flakes to remind you of the menu's Asian soul.

The simple pan-seared rib eye with truffle sabayon is nice, but it's like the many former Miss Universe winners, not memorable.

And although his pandan panna cotta with gula melaka hits home, I've had a more stunning version done with chendol dressing at Dempsey Village before.

I now see his 'stress-free, getaway' point - stress-free experience and service, and to get away from lousy food.

In a time when there are still enough pockets to afford a $35 meal, this restaurant works well for them.

Makansutra, founded by KF Seetoh, is a company that celebrates Asian food culture and lifestyle. It publishes food guides in and around the region, produces a food television series, develops interactive mobile content and services, operates food courts and eateries, organises food tours and events, and consults on culinary concepts.

FYI

WHAT: Wild Rocket

WHERE: hangout@mt emily, 10a, Upper Wilkie Road

WHEN: From Tues to Sat, noon to 3pm (lunch), 6.30pm to 11pm (dinner)

On Sundays 11.30am to 3pm (brunch), 6.30pm to 10.30pm (dinner)

Closed on Mondays

CALL: 63399448 (reservations preferred)

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