HE WANTS to be known only as Ah Hong and is very reluctant to say much about himself and his culinary craft.

PICTURES: MAKANSUTRA

But he is actually very friendly despite not handling the spotlight well.

Ah Hong has paid his dues in the Japanese makan scene, and he has served me one of the most stunning platters of sashimi I've ever had.

It came fisherman-peasant style - chunky and perfectly sliced by someone who knows the anatomy of a fish well. The huge slices were so soft and smooth, and they melted in the mouth.

And on a few occasions, he served up a heart-stopping and irresistable piece of sushi, which consisted of toro (tuna belly), topped with very fresh uni (sea urchin, with no suspicious pong) and speckled with fish roe.

I often have dreams of it. I absolutely loved it.

Once, he served this blob - probably grilled, stewed in stock and then braised (I am only guessing how he made it) in teriyaki sauce with sake.

It was gooey and heady with flavours inside, but was hard and inedible outside. It was stewed giant tuna fish eyes, bigger than a golf ball.

To my perverted palate, it was ambrosia.

Just before you think this is some weird extravagant exercise in Japanese makan, he would bring you back to earth when you are subjected to his omakase meals (the chef cooks what he wants to for you) with some plain fried light salted nagaimo (wild mountain yam) chips and a homely bowl of udon in clear broth.

But here's the twist. I had given him, at his insistence, my word that I must not recommend this little restaurant of his.

'I can't handle the crowd as my place seats only 14,' Ah Hong said. 'All my regulars fill the place every night and they know what I offer each day.'

He has this thing about wannabe Japanese chow fans here: 'I don't really like serving up the fare that they are familiar with, like tempura, ramen and yakitori.'

This explains why, if you know this restaurant, it is hard to get reservations, unless Ah Hong knows who you are.

So here's the twist in today's plot.

He now also runs a hawker stall and I chanced upon it a few weeks ago when I bumped into him at Beach Road (his restaurant only opens three hours for dinner).

I cajoled him until he uncomfortably relented to tell his story here - that the stall is an escape from the routine at this other little 'secret' restaurant, and a good opportunity to rake in a few bucks more for his personal charitable causes.

He offers the usual Japanese set rice meals, but his grilled salmon set is a class apart from his peers.

Dressed with just enough sauce, the fish retains its juiciness and sits on a bed of soft Japanese rice (many hawkers trim costs here with plain rice or South Chinese pearl grains).

His tempura set has only one simple discernable difference from the top Japanese eateries. He uses a lower grade oil for frying, but it still comes crispy and light, and dipped in the same batter he uses at his restaurant.

His other top seller (and he's been at it there for only three months) is the grilled chicken set - charred a shade darker than usual outside but succulent inside.

His sets, which begin at around $4.50, come with the usual miso soup, that triangular slice of watermelon, salad and an unusual (for such stalls) vegetable soup - sweetly flavoured with mushrooms, carrots and daikon (Japanese radish).

When asked, since it's a hawker stall, he answered: 'Yes, I use MSG.'

But I realised it's actually Japanese kondashi (a $50 a can type of naturally dried fish dust). And all at once, I knew there are things this chef - who had stints in the old, respected but now defunct Kampachi Restaurant here, and with master chefs in Japan - will not compromise on.

You can try, but I think he will also not compromise on his stand in letting all and sundry know about his other 14-seater in town.

Perhaps he will tell you his full name.

Makansutra, founded by KF Seetoh, is a company that celebrates Asian food culture and lifestyle. It publishes food guides in and around the region, produces a food television series, develops interactive mobile content and services, operates food courts and eateries, organises food tours and events, and consults on culinary concepts.

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FYI

WHAT: 76, Japanese Kitchen

WHERE: 505 Beach Rd #01-76 Golden Mile Food Centre

WHEN: 10.30am - 2.30pm (usually sold out by 1.30pm). Closed on Sundays

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