I WOULD like to start today's story with a little pause, and I rightly believe it is for the right cause.

PICTURE: MAKANSUTRA

Stop this fuss over who-owns-what and what-dish-came-from-where chest-thumping already.

Any more questions on this and I'll be tempted to make stories up just to throw vinegar into the chocolate mousse and add more colour to this wayang.

Who cares about who owns laksa when it is available cheaply, done deliciously and available at every coffee shop and hawker centre. But really, food is meant to be devoured and savoured, not kidnapped.

Now, I can go back to my order of the day and recount a tale about the joy of makan.

My first meal with makan and travel anthropologist Anthony Bourdain way back in 2003 was arranged when his agent asked if I could take this chap out for a Singapore style meal for this new food show.

They went on to say how the show could not claim to have been to Singapore if I did not lead him for a meal. I said okay.

Since a free meal beckoned and I was missing Danny's crab bee hoon at Geylang, I thought 'what the heck', just lay my terms on them thick.

We cruised through $650 worth of seafood and beer that night. The grand finale was the signature crab bee hoon dish, which had Tony slurping and gnawing and then going on a dark, long and enlightening impromptu monologue which ended with a 'I would be happy if the world ended right now'.

That was someone who celebrated makan. He did not care who owned the dish.

I've had the pleasure of watching Danny churn out his iconic signature in his Sin Huat Coffeeshop stall up close, many times over.

The technique is not quantum physics and I've asked, and the only secret he'll not reveal to me is what swirls in his magic stock pot that gives his bee hoon dish that zing. So to further my note of enjoying this addictive seafood noodle, here's my take on his recipe. Many have tried to emulate Danny's version, and at best, they are pathetic, perhaps this one too.

But please, don't ask where this dish came from in Lor 35 Geylang, Singapore.

Coriander, fried shallots for garnishing

Method

1. Fry bee hoon in wok with some oil till it browns little at the edges. Set aside.

2. Bring to a boil the chicken stock with oyster sauce, dried shrimps and ikan bilis. Then boil the chopped crabs in the stock for about 10 minutes, together with the sliced ginger.

3. Remove the boiled crabs from the pot and set them aside.

4. Braise bee hoon in the chicken/crab stock till soft yet firm (for about 4mins)

5. Then put the vegetables and toppings (except the coriander and fried shallots) and stir fry. It should be wet and saucy at this stage.

6. Add soy sauce, salt and sugar to taste. Add the crabs in and thicken it with tablespoon of cornstarch. Splash Hsiao Hsing wine in.

7. Plate and serve, top with the crispy fried shallots and coriander.

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