IF YOU have not heard about this two-year-old eatery, it's obvious you don't trawl the web for information.

FRAGRANT: Just look at those loose ricegrains interspersed with bits of fish roe. DREAM COME TRUE: Running a restaurant was Francis Mak's childhood dream. PICTURES: MAKANSUTRA

Eslim, one of our most respected on-line foodies, first gushed about this place last year (he rarely does), and the response was overwhelming.

The drool-worthy images were enticing, as was the positive feedback from even cynical bloggers.

The close-up images of the thick Hong Kong-style French toast were obviously shot with a smile, and there were interesting cze cha dishes not usually seen in establishments of this genre.

See the magnified picture of fish roe fried rice - so loose, with the crunchy bits of orange fish roe beckoning.

On weekends, a reservation may be required.

But that was not how it began.

Francis Mak was a Hong Kong- based futures broker working for a Singaporean outfit there.

Sixteen years ago, he was posted here and began to nurse this childhood dream of running a restaurant.

FRAGRANT: Just look at those loose ricegrains interspersed with bits of fish roe.

So he got this little Balestier Road kitchen and dug into the grease traps, waste water disposal and exhaust hoods, thinking that all he needed was to decorate a bit, put workers in and press 'play'.

Then reality slammed down on him.

'I never knew it would be so hard to get people. I advertised and all the wrong and unqualified chefs came. Even getting Singaporean to wash plates was impossible. They asked for the moon.

'I eventually had to get a chef from Hong Kong and farm dishwashing work out to a company,' he said.

The first nine months was 'hell'.

But his baby was truly born when he took the problems by the horns and employed a hands-on philosophy.

'I clean when I need to and serve when it's crowded. I'll even wash the toilets,' he said.

But he still can't wield the wok.

Setting up shop in Balestier Road was a bit of a challenge, as he found out later.

He knew that the area was some sort of a 'wai sek kai' or gluttons street, but didn't know folks wouldn't go there for Hong Kong-style cafe stuff.

He now has a better sense of the pampered local 'wai sek mau' (hungry felines).

So he switched from only Hong Kong 'cha chan tang' (cafe) offerings to more Hong Kong-style cze cha dishes, although his frighteningly thick and rich French toast and nai cha (milk tea) are still on the menu.

Whenever I chowed down there, the many dishes I tried never failed me.

To start, they offer this rare Fortune seafood roll ($7 for two) - seafood and water chestnuts fried and wrapped in a light and crispy dough net.

There is also a soft dough skin filled with popiah-like ingredients tied like a pomegranate pouch and doused in light sauce. It looks nicer than it tastes but I am not complaining.

I swear by the fish roe fried rice ($10) - each grain was so well-tossed in the wok and when the final bits of lightly salty flying fish roe were tossed in, the deal was complete for me.

Those who love lamb will have a field day pigging out on the stewed lamb brisket hotpot ($18).

Chunks of lamb, tofu skin, radish and mushrooms seeking attention in a pot stew infused with nam yue (red fermented tofu) are paired with a nam yue mix dip and fine bits of kaffir lime leaves to perfume the sensation - a nice touch.

His very hearty plate of stir fried red garoupa slices ($20) is outstanding simply because of the quality of the fish - fresh, chunky, quickly wok-seared, with juices retained.

His old-school Cantonese fried chicken is as good as they say on our Internet forum - juicy and crispy.

And yes, he even thought about Singaporean's parking idiosyncrasies - just tell the jaga (guard) at the entrance and he'll point you to some free reserved slots in front or at the back.

Otherwise, just park across at the large public carpark or at the hotel next door.

Makansutra, founded by K F Seetoh, is a company that celebrates Asian food culture and lifestyle. It publishes food guides in and around the region, produces a food television series, develops interactive mobile content and services, operates food courts and eateries, organises food tours and events, and consults on culinary concepts.

CAFE DE HONG KONG

WHERE: 586 Balestier Road #01-01 Eastpac Building

OPEN: 11.30am to 3pm/ 5.30pm to midnight Closed on Mondays

TEL: 62553865

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