I MUST admit or announce that I am not penning this piece on fine vegetarianism and healthy makan because it is the start of a new year with resolutions to be kept.

MEATLESS: (Below) Naive's Cheeky Monkey - fried chunks of mushrooms tossed in crispy cereal with curry leaves and chilli. (Above) Naive's Penang Rendang is one of its signature dishes and can definitely pass off as the real thing to the uninitiated. PICTURES: MAKANSUTRA

Eating fashionably and then starving to compensate is for followers.

I'd rather we eat because the food is good, like you eat turkey because you like it, not because it is Christmas. Same theory for champagne and New Year celebrations.

So, in that vein, I sort of qualify why I am a new believer of vegetarian chow.

Mention that term and many will think temple-style fried beehoon with light curry sans garlic and onions with itsy bits of cabbage and mushrooms, or sad salads with loud dressings.

Once, on a whim some two years back, I went to the Geylang district for a vegetarian meal at The Whole Earth restaurant (now relocated to Peck Seah Street near Chinatown).

The chow there did not fail me.

It had splendid renditions of vegetarian Nonya and Thai-styled dishes done with mushrooms and soy products.

I remember vividly its ayam buah keluak - it was made with a rich rempah. The flavour of the black nut ran wild and mighty in the pot, untainted with meat flavours and essence.

Nice, especially over rice.

Then, the folks behind it opened another veggie eatery in East Coast Road, except they went 'modern Asian' in concept.

They called it Naive and it is as vegetarian as it comes, except that this time, they did not put the 'V' on the signboard.

'The word vegetarian, because of the local experience, has a negative connotation. It is associated with religion and diets,' said Ms Wood Hui Mean, who manages the outlet and is a vegetarian of two years.

She often gets unsuspecting guests dropping by, ordering and enjoying the 'rendang', only to realise later, 'you mean this is vegetarian? Wah, nice.'

Which was similar to my reaction when I first bit into it, except I knew it was as green as they come.

The difference was the meat composition. It uses only mushroom-based 'meats' and while it has that pleasant soft crunch, it also has that fibrous feel.

It serves this Penang Rendang ($9.90) with steamed buns. You won't taste the light rempah absorbed in the 'meat' but it sat well as a sauce with it.

It is known for its monkey head mushrooms and it does it in various styles. I attempted the Cheeky Monkey ($12.90) - fried chunks tossed in crispy cereal with curry leaves and chilli.

The texture was right, the crispiness was fun and the spiciness was light. But it just lacked that one factor, a distinct flavour, perhaps in the form of a sauce reduction which could be introduced by tossing the fried mushrooms in it before rolling it in the cereal bits and the chilli.

The Autumn Tofu ($9.90) is the crowd pleaser and I can see why.

The tofu block came very soft and was doused in a 'minced meat' sauce made with soy sauce-stewed mushrooms bits.

It was hard to tell the difference.

I paired all the dishes with a bowl of their rather pricey steamed lemongrass rice ($2.90) but it did not disappoint.

It came smelling like chicken rice and had light fragrant hints of lemongrass and it was fluffy and grainy without being too soft.

I wonder what it would use as 'bones' if it offers bak kut teh.

Makansutra, founded by KF Seetoh, is a company that celebrates Asian food culture and lifestyle. It publishes food guides in and around the region, produces a food television series, develops interactive mobile content and services, operates food courts and eateries, organises food tours and events, and consults on culinary concepts.

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FYI

WHAT: Naive

WHERE: 99,East Coast Road

WHEN: Lunch and dinner daily

TEL: 63480668

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