I WAS eagerly anticipating this trip to Malacca, for two days of food, wine and culture in a landmark city for Peranakan and Eurasian heritage.

RARE: Good Puchuk Paku Masak Lemak (wild fern in coconut curry) can be hard to find, even in Malacca. TNP PICTURE: KF SEETOH

I was about to learn what 'die, die, must try' sounds like in Kristang. To find out, at one of their oldest Peranakan restaurants, about the subtle differences between Malacca's and Singapore's nonya chow.

I could not go wrong this time, after many disappointing trips winding up at touristy 'travel 101' corners of this historic city.

I had pal and 'local encyclopedia' Bonny Wee with me this time. He is the author of a few books on his hometown and his latest, Malacca, A World Heritage Site, throws up gems only a local born and bred and proud Malaccan can uncover.

So, there I was, all set to eat debal (devil's curry), feng, smore and even pork tambrinu (tamarind pork stew).

The first night was at the Portuguese settlement area which was recently redeveloped into a seaside food court and esplanade.

We dined at one of the more popular stalls there and, after a disappointing meal with bland chop suey, plain deep fried eggplant and no debal, Benny said: 'The Eurasian and Kristang makan here is a bit sad today. Don't know what happened, it was not like this 30 years ago.'

The saving grace was a sambal prawn, but it was Malay in style.

To compensate, Bonny suggested 'makan at the nonya restaurant Malaccans swear by'.

Restoran Nonya Makko began life when Maureen Guan and her mother, Madam Chock, set it up in 1984, a year after opening their first eatery, Ole Sayang.

You won't see many Europeans attempting ayam buah keluak here, as it is away from the tourist-magnet old streets of Jonker and Tan Cheng Lok, in an unfancied modern corner of town.

The restaurant is not much of a looker - old marble tables and some stained glass windows. It reminded me of our old Guan Hoe Soon restaurant in Joo Chiat.

But I must admit that this is indeed one of the finer Peranakan eateries I've been to, in terms of food quality.

They don't dish out buah keluak, pongteh, chap chye or otah as signature dishes, as is often done in Singapore.

I would go back for their Puchuk Paku Masak Lemak (wild fern cooked in coconut curry) which we can't find in Singapore. It has a light crunchy texture with an agreeable garden fragrance.

Their Jenak Goreng Chilli Garam (crispy fried fish with chilli sambal) was the second best version I've ever had (behind nonya Kenny Chan's version). The chilli sambal was teasingly engaging.

Their simple Chinchalok Omelet had just enough hint of that pungent fermented shrimp sauce laced with fresh onions and chilli.

I wished their tightly packed and rolled Ngoh Hiang (meat roll) was made in the original pork version instead of chicken.

It was well made, chunky and juicy to the bite but, alas, it just lost out in texture.

I noticed that the staff at Makko consisted entirely of women and Maureen revealed: 'We didn't plan it, but it is all woman power here... three chefs and four at the front-end.'

Which may account for their homemade makan taste, which so many Malaccans relish.

Makansutra, founded by KF Seetoh, is a company that celebrates Asian food culture and lifestyle. It publishes food guides in and around the region, produces a food television series, develops interactive mobile content and services, operates food courts and eateries, organises food tours and events, and consults on culinary concepts.

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RESTORAN NONYA MAKKO

WHERE: 123, Taman Melaka Raya, Bandar Hilir, Malacca, Malaysia

OPEN: 11.30am to 2.45pm, 6pm to 9.30pm Closed on Tuesdays

TEL: 06-2840737

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