Makansutra: The wonders of warteg at Indonesian food stall-style restaurant Tok Tok
In my makan field trips to Indonesia, I noted that one of the more popular eating establishments is the warteg - a local kopitiam, chap chye and zi char stall all rolled into one.
The name is a combination of warung (small shop) and Tegal (a town in Java).
People flock to the warteg when they know what they want to eat or drink.
The menu is huge, and it has a loud and friendly atmosphere.
Turns out, there is a humble version of this in Singapore.
Walking into Tok Tok took me back to my road trips in Java.
Indonesian food here need no longer be just about nasi padang, satay, soto or even sop buntut (oxtail soup) anymore.
The little snack display and order counter, the colours, no-frills bench and table set-up all remind me of a warteg.
The only difference is the menu - it is way smaller but no less authentic.
The Nasi Campur Bali ($9.90) is Tok Tok's signature rice set, and it looks absolutely alluring.
Soft rice is the bed for the telor balado (sambal egg), tempe orek (sweet and spicy tempe), stir-fried long beans, beef satay, beef rendang, dendeng balado (spicy beef jerky), shredded chicken and a dollop of sambal.
It is sweet, salty, spicy, crispy and totally aromatic.
CROWD-PLEASER
It is hard to go wrong with this. At least one item will please you.
They have a cute little nasi lemak-like snack pack - the Nasi Jinggo ($3.90) - with glazed tempe, Balinese shredded chicken, shredded omelette, housemade sambal and rice, plus a portion of fried noodles.
The Mie Ayam Bakso ($8) will taste plain and spicy.
The noodles are lightly seasoned, and you spoon in a copious amount of the sambal, toss it, then devour it with shredded chicken, greens and a bowl of soup with springy beef balls.
It is the simplicity that makes this dish moreish.
The Sate Ayam (chicken satay, six sticks for $5.80) has all the authentic touches in place, right down to the creamy, spicy peanut sauce, crispy shallots and any amount of kicap manis you want.
But the letdown was the chicken. It came firmer and drier than the ones I adore in Jakarta, largely due to supply quality here.
They use fresh kampung chicken back in Indonesia.
The Es Cendol Durian ($4.50) hits all the right notes, from soft pandan jellies to sweetened and soft red beans to slushy soft ice with good-grade gula melaka and coconut milk.
The disappointment was the dollop of durian. It came frozen and iced, and that irked me. It should have been creamy, cold and soft.
Tok Tok Indonesian Soup House
18, Ann Siang Road, #01-01
11am to 9pm daily
Tel: 6221-1760
K.F. Seetoh, the founder of Makansutra, dabbles in street food businesses like Food Markets and has his own TV shows on cable. He publishes food guides and online content. He is also the creator of the World Street Food Congress. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
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